Stripping the bottom of a CD Typhoon
At the start I think there may have been 35 years worth of paint on the bottom of this boat minus what had chipped off. I knew this was going to be a big job at the beginning but thought maybe I'd get lucky and most of it would just power wash off and a lot did. It ended up being a 3 stage process. Power wash, Chemical Strip then ultimately grind/sand off the remaining paint.
Stage 1. Power washing let's see what we have here.
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| That can't be good. |
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| Well there is still some fiber glass holding the rudder on. |
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| Inspector is up from his nap... Dad things are not looking good here. |
Stage 2 Paint Stripper.
For this I used Back to Nature Ready Strip. Found at your friendly West Marine. The reviews on West's web site are pretty accurate. The stripper is not a cure all but given time it takes off quite a bit. I stripped the entire bottom twice and along the water line once more. The product worked well but there was still quite a bit of work to be done. The water line was the toughest. It was also where the paint build up was the heaviest.
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| Before stripper |
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| After Stripper |
Stage 3. Sanding.
There is no easy way to do this. I tried using all the sanders I had at my disposal and eventually just ended up using a sanding disk on my high speed drill. I burned through 2 of the plastic disks and countless pieces of sand paper. The sand paper gums up pretty quickly when you are sanding this paint. I did find that hitting the paper on a rough brick would chip off some of the paint build up and bring the sand paper back to life for a bit longer but not much. I'd also stay away from any sand paper made by Gator. That stuff was the worst of as the glue on the back of their sand paper is all but useless. I shot several pieces of Gator paper across my yard. Something none of the other brands did. After several evenings of grinding away in 98 + degree weather... Yeah I picked one of the hottest summers ever to do this in the middle of a drought. I finally got to the end a smooth clean bottom.
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| Before Sanding |
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| After some sanding. |
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| Final push sanding the water line. Final thoughts. Wow was it hot that day. Maybe I should have had someone sandblast this thing. After this a good bit of faring and glass work was done to smooth out the real rough spots; patch up the surface, repair the rudder gudgeon, and re-secure the rudder to its shaft. In the end, the bottom isn't perfect but it is a far cry from where it started. |
Hi Chris, Just added an 83 Ty to my family and the attachment i have with this vessel is only equal to what i would like to know about it. You have a photo posted with a caption of "this can't be good". It looks like the gudgeon is separated from the hull. My question is in regards to the depth of the milled hole in the gudgeon. My rudder has a vertical play of about 60mm. There doesn't appear to be anything stopping the downward movement until the bottom of the rudder post contacts the gudgeon. Can you tell me the maximum depth the rudder post seat into the gudgeon?
ReplyDeletePeter I'm not sure what the depth of the gudgeon seat is I'll look for you next time I get down to the boat. I'm going to be out of town leaving today so back next week. There is some up and down play but it is very little. From my reading the gudgeon is tied back into the keel pretty well. When I first looked at mine I was concerned but after doing some reading out how the piece was integrated into the hull. What I was seeing splitting off was the fairing compound. What I did was wrap the bottom of mine with fiberglass mat dipped in west system. Then faired it back out with 410 fairing compound. I suppose yours could be a different situation than mine 60 mm. That's close to an inch and half play that seems like a lot. You may want to have someone take a loom at that. When you push it up does it come out or can you see the bottom of the post? You may be able to adjust it on the to side. Where the tiller clamps on. on Stripping the bottom of a CD Typhoon
DeletePeter I'm not sure what the depth of the gudgeon seat is I'll look for you next time I get down to the boat. I'm going to be out of town leaving today so back next week. There is some up and down play but it is very little. From my reading the gudgeon is tied back into the keel pretty well. When I first looked at mine I was concerned but after doing some reading out how the piece was integrated into the hull. What I was seeing splitting off was the fairing compound. What I did was wrap the bottom of mine with fiberglass mat dipped in west system. Then faired it back out with 410 fairing compound. I suppose yours could be a different situation than mine 60 mm. That's close to an inch and half play that seems like a lot. You may want to have someone take a loom at that. When you push it up does it come out or can you see the bottom of the post? You may be able to adjust it on the to side. Where the tiller clamps on.
ReplyDeleteTop side ... Sorry posting from my phone
ReplyDeleteHi Chris, Great blog, lots of awesome info and pictures. I am restoring a '74 Ty Weekender, your blog has helped with a lot of issues and questions. One I am still trying to work out is the rudder. It looks like the rudder has failed at the first attachment point inside, maybe the second. I wondering what your rudder's condition was like and how you secured and repaired it? Any ideas or leads in the area would be helpful, I am Newport based at the moment. Cheers, and smooth sailing. -Pete
ReplyDeleteHi Peter Glad you like the blog. My Rudder was in good shape but the fiberglass wrapping the post had mostly come off and the putty around the gudgeon was chipping off. I read some where that the gudgeon is tied back into the keel so structurally I was not worried about it falling off. Regardless I ran some long strips of fiber glass mat dipped in epoxy back along the lower tying the gudgeon back to the main section of the keel. Then put wax paper between the hull and rudder post and wrapped the post with fiberglass mat back on to the rudder. Sorry I don't think I took pictures of this process. I used west system 410 to fair the whole area out.
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