Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Beach Party!



Our second trip out was a great success.  The 1st trip was okay but a bit breezy for us so it was cut a bit short.


So off  for a sail on Lake Michigan.     This post is just eye candy.

Moving along
Pillows




Tell tails look good.


Snack Time
TY





Cabin Kid
Kicked Back






















After a bit of sailing we had enough of the black flies and headed for the beach.




From the water.


Stern from the water line. 
Swimming to the beach.

On the beach "Get Kraken" in the background.

Back at home port.

Saturday, September 8, 2012

Launch Day

This was our first time launching the Typhoon off a trailer. BB and I had launched my old Catalina 22 off a trailer before but we figured this was a bit different the dory being a full keel boat.  I talked to a John at Tower Marine about the best places to launch in Saugatuck. He recommended launching at the  down town ramp next to The Star of Saugatuck.  The Star is a large paddle wheel river boat that cruises up and down Lake Kalamzoo and out to Lake Michigan.  When I went in to pay the ramp fee I asked the ladies at the counter about the ramp and water depth.  The drought this year was foremost on my mind and water levels are down here.  They said they didn't really know and in all their time working their had never seen a sailboat launch from the ramp.  So I paid the fee trusting John's knowledge of the area and we checked the ramp out more closely.  The launch went really well. So here are the basic stages we went through for those of you new to launching a sailboat at a ramp.  

Stage 1: Line up with the Ramp.  The ramp we used was large enough that we set up on one side so other boats could still use the other side.  While we were rigging fishing boats where launching on the other half of the ramp.  

The Ramp



Stage 2:   We stepped the mast prior to launching.  It is not necessary to do this, you can launch then step we just find it easier to get the mast pins lined up to the deck step when the boat is not bobbing up and down in the water.


Mast Up
Rig

Stage 3: Stick out your tongue.  To do this you first need to block off your wheels.  It would be no good to watch the trailer roll into the lake at this point.  After the wheels are blocked we lower the trailers forward pad/wheel this will take the pressure off the tongue of the trailer so you can pull the clevis pins.  One person pulls the car forward slowly and the other lets the drop pin fall in.  The cotter keys are put back in and the wheel blocks are removed. 



Stick out your trailer tongue.

Stage 4:  Prepare the lines.  Make sure your lines are secured to your cleats.  We secure lines to the dock side one forward and one aft. 

Dock lines

Stage 5:  Roll it in and entertain the seniors.  We gathered quite a little group for a Tuesday afternoon. This is pretty much like any other boat launch.  Roll down the ramp while the second person tends the lines.  


Entertain the Seniors
Stage 6:  Tie up and park the trailer. 





Tied up 
Mission accomplished an empty trailer.



Stage 7 Jump on board!  This proved a bit more difficult than usual.  One off our lines got wrapped on the post.  BB jumped off to untangle it and the boat left her at the dock.  Yes I came back for her.  ...  The Seniors even clapped for us.




Hop On.

Stage 8: Go for a ride. 
From ramp to dock.


Cleaning up.
BB on board.



Once we got back to Tower Marine.  We finished rigging. Retrieved the trailer our kiddo and a pizza. 

Final Rigging
Dock line set up.
Dock lines set.
Rigging completed


Looking for snacks
Tiller in the sun.




Locking up to head home.
The perfect end to the day.










Sunday, September 2, 2012

Rainy Day Project and Bronze Ports.


The drought here has finally broken.  We've had several days or rain and there is just not much that can get done on the boat at this point.  So I pulled the tiller back off and brought it in for the day.  After several different wrap attempts I finally settled on this.  It really looks neat and the double braid line color goes really well with the new anti-skid.  The pictures really don't do this justice.  One of these days I'm going to get a better camera...  "I'll have to quit buying boat parts."   Yeah I'm probably never getting a better camera. 



top side
close up
head on


Bronze port
Hillbilly Bronzing:  I looked at bronze ports at over a $100 a piece they are a bit down the road with regard to this project.  However Rustoleum metallic paint is $22 dollars so this seems like a good option.    "Maybe I will get that camera after all."  Tape it off sand the old chrome spray it, easy peasy.  These where originally chromed and the chrome had rubbed off in many places.  The bronze paint matches pretty well to the cleats and other bronze work however BB says they're a bit oranger.
Bronze Port.





Teak, Bronze, and Anti-Skid


Rub Rails



Sand, sand & sand some more.  This has been the summer of sandpaper for me.  The teak on this boat was in rough shape to say the least.  It had gone gray and the previous owner coated it with Watco teak oil obviously an attempt to pretty up the boat before selling.  So I stripped the teak with teak cleaner.  Then began sanding.  When I started this stuff was rough especially the rub rails.  I could easily see getting splinters in your foot as I walked around the deck or sat in the cockpit.   It took me a long time and a lot of deliberating on what to coat the teak with once I'd finished.  I was going to use Sikkens.   I've used Sikkens before however have not been overly thrilled with the products durability or mustardy color.  Yet all the web forums still say it is the best stuff out there.   While standing in the aisle at Wolfs  holding the can in my hand and looking around rather sad about the color choices one of Wolf's people came up and asked if I needed help.  They actually recommended Epifanes for teak. According the him it will hold up longer than Sikkens and when it is time to re-coat it is much easier to work with than Sikkens.  Sikkens cracks up and is hard to remove when it breaks down. It was, in the end, an easy choice to go with the Epifanes.  Epifanes is a one part product unlike Sikkens which requires a color coat before the gloss coat.  Epifanes doesn't discolor the wood with a pre-stain and I've been very pleased with the results. Maintenance looks like it is going to be easy.  Let's hope word of mouth proves to be far more effective than rumor of the forum.
Cockpit Combing
Cockpit Trim





Toe Rails
Toe Rails





Shinned up  & clear coated.
Bronze:
I know you are supposed to let it go green.  But it was all in such rough shape and I've come this far on the clean up I'd may as well push over the edge into the realm of insanity.  The bronze castings on this boat are just excellent.  It took a while to get all of the bronze clean.  I tried everything,  brass cleaners, wipes, Ketchup.  Plain white vinegar ended up being the best chemical cleaner but, nothing beat some fine sand paper, a wire wheel and the dremel tool.  I rubbed and cleaned and scrubbed these down. Then finally sprayed them with special lacquer designed for out door use by Permalac.

Lots of small pieces.




















Anti-Skid



The deck anti-skid was in need of a good re-coat as well.  I've done this before on the old boat.  See this link.  It is a pretty straight forward process.  You scuff up the deck with some light sanding. Then I used Interlux Brightsides  light blue with their anti-skid additive. The first coat I did with a fine foam roller.  This provided a good even color coat. The second coat was done with a short nap roller providing a bit more texture to the deck and building up the anti-skid for the next time I want to skin my knees.  The finished product is hard to argue with.  It's a good clean surface that your deck shoes stick to.  

Before

After